In Fashion: Taking the short cut
Apr 06,2007 00:00 by Sharon_Mosley

Short is the way to go when it comes to hair trends this spring, says Michelle Fiona, hair stylist for Bumble and bumble. She worked her coiffure magic on spring runway shows like Vivienne Tam, Tuleh, J. Mendel and more.

"For this spring, short haircuts are going to be extremely popular," says Fiona, "particularly groomed short cuts like bobs and boy cuts.

"Longer hair is all about soft textured bath-time buns," she adds." A great way to make updos more interesting is to create two French braids on either side of the head and gather the ends into a low bun."

Fiona also notes that color is going to make fashion headlines.

"Color this season is natural," she says, "yet strong, with shades such as believable baby blondes and sexy reds."

And forget those chunky highlights.

SHORT STYLE - Going short is the newest way to show off the latest hair trends a la Louise Brooks at the Vivienne Tam spring runway show in New York. CNS Photo courtesy of Bumble & Bumble.

"The painting technique is particularly good for this," says Fiona, "as it yields a natural mix of color and not the streaky and obvious effects foils can create."

And if you are a movie star headhunter, there's good news.

"If celebrities are more inspirational to you than runways, some recent styles that are going to shape trends can be seen on stars such as Michelle Williams and Selma Blair," says Fiona. "Williams has a great Mia Farrow-like short cut and Blair is sporting a great pixie cut at the moment. As far as longer styles, Maggie Gyllennhaal always has great soft updos."

And what is one of Fiona's best tips for getting that great cut?

"When you're going to the salon to try on a trend," she suggests, "it's always a good idea to bring in pictures of looks and styles that inspire you. A good one for a short bob is Louise Brooks or Michelle Williams, and for longer bobs try Faye Dunaway in the movie "Bonnie and Clyde."

Fiona also advises easing into spring from winter when it comes to caring for your hair.

"It's important to get either a hair cut or trim," she says, "as hair tends to be incredibly dry from the indoor heat it is exposed to all winter long."

She also suggests treating dehydrated hair with a masque rich in lipids and wheat proteins. Using styling products that extend the benefits of deep treatment masques is also therapeutic.

Some other spring hair trends to keep in mind this spring when you visit your stylist, which are from the spring/summer 2007 runway trend report by the hair experts at Bumble and bumble.

THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT

At Bumble and bumble, the spring/summer 2007 season saw a dramatic start. Two emerging models - Cecilia Mendez and Ekaterina - braved drastic cuts. The long styles seen on last season's runways fell in heaps on the floor as stylists fashioned a bowl cut and a boyish undercut, sparking a trend that would echo backstage at shows from New York to Europe.

After seemingly endless seasons of long looks, one thing is clear: short hair is back. While a handful of models were bold enough to make a drastic change, Bumble and bumble stylists worked hard at the spring/summer 2007 Collections to cleverly create the illusion of short cuts from the front - without the commitment.

THE BOB

Seen at: Vivienne tam, Yigal Azrouel, Heatherette

The look: a classic bob shape with intense texture lending a chic take on this season's most popular style. Stylist Marco Santini gave hair a sleek, shiny bob at Vivienne Ttam with a chignon pulled at the nape of the neck. He loosened short layers and long, thick bangs to frame the face, finishing the look with Bb shine for glossy texture as well as Hair Powder to keep hair pins from slipping.

At Yigal Azrouel, Leonardo Manetti dried long hair with Bb styling lotion, adding a bit of curl for a softer look. A part was drawn slightly off center, and hair was pulled into a low and casual ponytail to create a modern bob that wasn't too refined or untouchable. The sides were left loose over the ears, and the shape was held in place with Bb "does it all."

THE CROP

Seen at: Tuleh, Chado Ralph Rucci, Hamish Morrow, Rick Owens, Palmer Jones andCarlos Miele.

The look: a faux short cut with unexpected detail.

Jimmy Paul created a mock crop at Tuleh by pulling hair away from the face into an elegant chignon. Volume and texture were added with Bb Hair Powder to a high ponytail, which Jimmy twisted loosely and held in place with large Fedora pins and small bobby pins. Bb "Does it all" added a soft hold that wasn't too stiff or formal.

At Carlos Miele, Damien Boissinot achieved a short look that was equal parts chic and playful by adding an unpredictable matte texture to a ponytail. Using Bb Hair Powder at the roots and ends, Damien created a look that gave this replicated crop a grungy edge.

THE BOY CUT

Seen at: Reyes, Zero maria Cornejo, Thakoon, Chaiken, Ruffian, Veronique Branquinho.

The look: A traditional schoolboy look with a side or center part.

Ramona simulated a classic boy cut at Reyes by drying hair with a straight, sleek texture, and creating a low ponytail at the nape of the neck. Hair was parted at the side and given a slick, groomed finish with Bb Sumo Wax around the hairline and part.

A less severe take on the groomed short cut was seen at Thakoon. Damien Boissinot fashioned a high ponytail with a sharp center part to keep the look more girly than tom-boy. Damien left a few pieces loose but tucked behind the ears to keep the style's shape. Bb Hair Powder gave the ponytail a dry, fresh texture, while a bit of shine kept the look clean and modern.

THE POMPADOUR

Adam and Eve, Ellen Tracy, J Mendel, DDC Lab

Seen at: J Mendel, Ellen Tracy, Adam and Eve, DDC lab, Barbara Tfank.

The Look: A feminine take on the 1950s pompadour at DDC lab. Laurent Philippon took inspiration from the 1960s, replicating Twiggy's iconic cut on long hair: a low pompadour with height at the crown. With Bb Hair Powder for volume, he pulled hair into a low ponytail with a deep side part, tucking it tight behind the ears and adding Bb styling Wax for texture. Hair was then pinned into a loose chignon with ribbon and tiny metal skulls woven throughout for a slightly punk, slightly bohemian detail. Using Bb Hair Powder for wild, wavy texture, Damien Boissinot backcombed roots at Adam and Eve, gripping hair into a messy ponytail. He left height at the top to emphasize the characteristic pompadour shape. Damien kept the sides tight and added extreme volume towards the front of the head by pulling center pieces loose.

THE MOHAWK

Seen at: Baby Phat.

The Look: A punk mohawk with seductive charm.

A surprisingly sexy and exotic mohawk appeared on the Baby Phat runway, another unique creation by Laurent Philippon.

To achieve a piecey, matte texture and loads of volume, Laurent crimped and straightened alternating hair sections. She added Bb Hair Powder down the center of the head for extreme volume. Two low ponytails at the base of the head combined with slick sides gave the look its recognizable shape. A combination of Bb Holding spray, "Does it all" and Classic Hair spray gave it a punk rock edge and massive height.

AND SOMETIMES BIGGER IS BETTER

Bill Blass, Diesel, BCBG

Seen at: BCBG, Bill Blass, Diesel, Sandoval, Ruffian, Naeem Khan.

The Look: Long looks with loads of volume.

Those designers bucking this season's faux short cuts opted for big texture and bigger volume.

To create the bold style seen at Sandoval, Ramona prepped hair with Bb styling lotion and continued by wrapping hair around randomly placed pins. She set the shape with a flat iron, then chose sporadically placed pieces to curl with a small iron. Once curls and waves of various shapes and sizes were in place, Ramona brushed them out, pulling hair upwards to manipulate a round shape with fullness close to the head. Bb Hair Powder added extra volume and matte texture for a look that was imperfect and pretty.

Channeling an "indie girl at a rock show," Dennis Lanni traded curlers for tissue paper at BCBG. Spraying hair first with Bb thickening spray, Holding spray and does it all for hold, Dennis wrapped hair around the paper, pinning it in place for added body. Once waves were let down, a flat iron was used for combination texture with a do-it-yourself feel: big waves from the root that seemed to straighten towards the ends.

Sharon Mosley is a former fashion editor of the Arkansas Gazette in Little Rock and executive director of the Fashion Editors and Reporters Association.